By Paolo Baracchino

www.baracchino-wine.com
p.baracchino@virgilio.it


As happens every year, the presentation of the latest vintage of Bordeaux almost completely overlaps Vinitaly. This presentation is aimed at wine journalists and trade representatives; the journalists are especially important for the winemakers, because their judgments influence the market, prices, and demand.

The trade representatives go to taste the wines, and then, under the strong influence of some journalists, place the orders necessary to supply their clients. In recent years there has been a tremendous increase in the prices of some wines, due to strong consumer demand. The Châteaux would sell the wines to the négociants, some of whom were able to corner large lots of wine and raise prices to a staggering degree before selling the wines to other négociants or to foreign importers; end consumers were thus forced to pay exorbitant prices to purchase top wines.

Because of this situation, money lost its value: a bottle of wine, a perfectly good wine, offered at the "reasonable price" of 800 Euros en primeur, could increase, after a few months, to 1500.00-2000.00 Euros.

The situation developed because some markets bought wines not just on the basis of quality, but also upon name and price. The more expensive the wine, the more desirable it became!

I watched all this with disbelief, because wine lovers like me, who want to maintain the continuity of the vintages in their cellars so as to follow the wines' evolution over time, find themselves forced to buy less wine, and even forego the purchase of some wines from overly pricey vintages.

The astronomical prices of 2005 Bordeaux were also due to the activity of speculators, who pushed the vintage very hard, as they did the 2000, which I feel to be superior to 2005.

The prices of 2006 Bordeaux, another good vintage, also reached absurd levels.

To give an example, for the price of a 12-bottle case of, say, Château Margaux from the 2004 vintage, an average but pleasant vintage that is clearly better than the 2002, one could buy just three or four bottles of the 2005, and only "en primeur," because after the presentation things only got worse.

Unfortunately, as was foreseeable, the world economy, including Russia and China, has collapsed; demand has too, and as a result winemakers and speculators are also facing hard times, and price increases have begun to taper off. Bringing this rather polemical, and bitter introduction to a close, I turn to my wonderful trip to Bordeaux.

Several months prior to leaving for Bordeaux, one must make hotel reservations and appointments to visit the various Châteaux, except for those that belong to the Union de Grand Cru. Indeed, to taste the wines of the Châteaux belonging to the Union, one can go, armed with a pass, to a tasting room designated by the organization; it is generally in a Château, and features all the Member wines from the appellation to which the Château belongs.

Scheduling everything is like assembling a puzzle, and tasting all the wines becomes a frantic race! For example, on my first trip I was unable to taste the wines of Château Latour, one of my favorites. After sending five emails I did get an answer, but only after asking a person more important than me for help, and, irony of ironies, I was unable to go because they day they asked me to come I was scheduled to be in Pomerol, and already had five appointments. Friends and colleagues of the Grand Jury Européen were also unable to make appointments with Château Latour.

The planning phase before departure is chaotic, and I must say I managed to organize everything properly thanks to the assistance of several Châteaux, which replied immediately to my emails. I have no interest in tasting 400 wines in a rush over the course of three days; rather, I want to take the time to analyze what I taste. The rating of a wine with a point score must be the synthesis of a complex visual, olfactory and taste analysis, of the sort that is only possible if one gives the wine the time it needs. I prefer to taste the wines alone, in the company of the glass, and then talk with the winemaker, enologist, agronomist, or representative of the Château.

Turning to the analysis of the 2008 vintage, I must stress that it was a late-ripening vintage, with, in general, a cool spring, and in some areas, a frost on April 7 that reduced production of both reds and whites. A difficult vintage with much work in the vineyards, intensive pruning, and considerable bunch selection to obtain lower yields and good quality. May was fairly wet, while bud set was in June. The entire summer was cool, with average temperatures slightly below normal.

July was dry, with little rain, whereas from August through September 15 it rained fairly often. The situation improved after mid September, with sun that helped the grapes to ripen, and led to a good, calm harvest.

Though there are exceptions, overall the right bank of the Dordonne yielded better wines than the left, in other words more mature wines with nice tannins, good taste balance, good body, and good length. I find that the 2008, though not a superb vintage overall, was better than the 2007 for some Châteaux. The great Châteaux of the left bank did succeed in making high quality wines.

Unfortunately, some made wines that are over concentrated and oaky, with bitter finishes. In many wines I did not find imposing structure, even if they were nicely balanced and persistent.

I want to stress that in my tasting notes, when I speak of the breadth of the tannins I am referring to the tannic sensations I feel on the upper gums. Tannins extending from one extremity of the upper gums to the other have a breadth of 6/6, while the ratio decreases if the tannins are less broad. The broader the tannins the more important they are. It is also possible, of course, to have broad tannins that are not particularly distinguished.

Let us now turn to the analysis of the wines tasted from March 30 to April 1.


Alter Ego 2008 Margaux Red                                                         87/89

The second wine of Château Palmer
52% Merlot, 48% Cabernet Sauvignon
A beautiful light purple ruby
The nose is pleasant, with minty balsamic notes followed by leather, cherry, cassis, and hardwood ash (a piece of charcoal).
The palate reveals strong smoky accents that recall the last aroma from the nose.
The wine is nicely balanced thanks to its freshness, which, with the aid of sweet, velvety fairly central (on the upper gum) tannins, keeps the alcohol from altering the flavor balance. Elegant and pleasing, though not highly structured. Charcoal aftertastes (fumé). Nice finish.

D'Armailhac 2008 Pauillac Red                                                      88/89

54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
Beautiful ruby with purple highlights
The nose has notes of chocolate, cherry, mint, sweet boisé, black pepper, nutmeg, leather, rhubarb root, amber, and prune, finishing with the sweet skin of boiled chestnuts.
On the palate are enjoyable fruity notes of fresh prune and cassis. The tannins are sweet, and fairly broad (4-6+), and initially velvety, drying in the finish.
Alcohol and freshness are nicely balanced, despite the wine's relative lack of structure.
With respect to 2007, this vintage has a better bouquet, narrower tannins, less intense body, and is somewhat less persistent.
Overall, and elegant, pleasing wine.

L'Arrivet Haut-Brion 2008 Pessac-Leognan Red                       85/89

Nice ruby.
The nose offers very ripe, almost jammy cherries, followed by mint, prunes, black pepper, candied almonds, and linseed oil.
The palate matches the nose; indeed, cherry jam is quite evident.
Alcohol and freshness are nicely balanced, and the latter, with the assistance of tannins that are sweet, velvety, and not too broad (4/6), make the wine fairly well balanced.
Fairly persistent. Fruit overripe.

Ausone 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                                     95/98

55% Cabernet Franc 45% Merlot
Brilliant, fairly intense ruby with deep violet reflections.
Complex bouquet; leather, gunpowder, intensity, mint, eucalyptus, cherry, prune, cassis, black pepper, nutmeg, chocolate, and finally very intense graphite. The palate is substantial, balanced, and with beautiful cassis, prune and cherry fruit.
The tannins, which are sweet, silky, and broad (5/6+) help the acidity direct the wine's balance. Long finish with cassis, prune and cherry. This vintage reminds me of the 2001, and is certainly more structured than the 2007, which was well made but lacking in structure.
In tasting first Chapelle D'Ausone, which is the second wine, and then Ausone, one senses a continuity in the wines, and feels the quality and structure of the palate grow. It gives me, if I may make a comparison, the same sensations I had when tasting the 2004 Serre Nuove and 2004 Ornellaia.
One can count upon Ausone's tremendous quality.

Belleuve Mondotte 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                 88/90

90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
Nice lively ruby with violet reflections.
The nose reveals licorice, cut tobacco, chocolate, toasted oak, rubber, cherry and prunes.
On the palate, alcohol is well integrated, and overshadowed by acidity and tannins, which are sweet, velvety, and broad (6/6-).
Long finish. Heavily oaked, even though the oak is sweet, and of good quality.

Bernadotte 2008 Haut-Médoc Red                                               87/89

56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot
Bright, shiny ruby.
The nose features leather, prunes, Williams pears, black pepper, nutmeg, mint, and intense violet floral notes, finishing with dried porcini mushrooms.
On the palate there's a pleasant violet explosion.
A fairly well balanced wine with sweet, velvety, but not too broad (4/6) tannins; alcohol and freshness alternate in guiding the wine. Fairly persistent, though not highly structured.
I very much liked the violet accents.

Les Carmes Haut-Brion 2008 Pessac-Leognan Red                  89/91

55% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
Lively ruby.
The bouquet is spicy, with black pepper and nutmeg followed by rhubarb root cherry, and prune, leading into slight hints of amber.
On the palate nice sweetness and medium body; a balanced wine with sweet, velvety and broad tannins (5/6)
Nice finish. Overall, pleasant wine with fruit that's not ripe, and much less oxidized.

Carruades De Lafite 2008 Pauillac Red                                         86/89

51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc
Ruby with purple highlights
The nose is initially timid, opening to reveal prune, strong cut tobacco, cigar box, Williams Pear, slight mint, and finally hints of varnish.
On the palate the pleasant fruity notes of fresh prunes seduce. A wine of moderate structure, that's fairly well balanced, with hard and soft elements both present in moderate amounts. The alcohol alternates with freshness. Fairly persistent.

Chapelle D'Ausone 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                 90/92

80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc
Intense lively ruby with deep purple highlights
The nose is explosive, with a nice range of fruit; cherry prune, cassis, leather, intense gunpowder, charred wood accents (fumé), graphite, mint, and a balsamic eucalyptus finish.
On the palate there's a pleasant fruity sweetness with slight toffee notes. Sweet, silky, broad tannins (5/6 -), and bright acidity that easily dominates alcohol.
Medium bodied with a long finish.

La Chapelle De la Mission Haut-Brion 2008 Pessac-Leognan Red

                                                                                                                86-88

56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc
Clear ruby with purple reflections.
The nose begins with intense Coccoina (an Italian glue with characteristic sweet almond aromas), echoed by candied almonds, cherries, prunes, black pepper, slight graphite, toasted hazelnut, cassis, and nutmeg leading into chocolate.
Bright acidity that does battle with alcohol, which manages to dominate, though partially. The tannins are fairly broad (4/6 +), sweet, and initially velvety though they become dry. The finish is somewhat tongue-burning. The body is not particularly intense, nor is the finish.
The 2007 was better balanced than the 2008, and I therefore find it to be slightly superior.

Cheval Blanc 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                           94/96

50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot
Seductive ruby red.
The nose is captivating, with an explosion of cut tobacco (Sigaro Toscano cuttings), Partagas cigar boxes, accompanied by intense prunes, cherries, and slight Williams pears, mint, graphite, dried tomatoes, violets, cassis, and, finally, hints of rhubarb root.
On the palate it reveals pleasant savory accents and minerality with rich prune fruit. An elegant wine that wraps the palate in alcohol, freshness, and tannins that are beautifully proportioned and in perfect equilibrium.
The tannins are sweet, silky, and broad (6/6 -), long intense finish with prune accents.
I noted that the 2007 had more evident boisé notes on the palate, and that the tannins were a bit less broad. The oak is very deftly used. A classy wine.
Compliments to Pierre Lurton!

Domaine de Chevalier 2008 Pessac - Leognan Red                  89/91

65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot
Beautiful ruby with purple highlights.
Tightly woven, concentrated nose with intense prune notes mingled with very ripe cherry and cassis, followed by fresh almonds, boisé, black pepper, nutmeg, leather, and in the finish mint.
The tannins are initially sweet and velvety, but become dry and hot on the upper gum in the finish. Fairly well balanced wine with alcohol dominated by pleasing freshness.
Long finish with cassis and prune that flow into bitterness, perhaps because of excessive oak.

Domaine de Chevalier Pessac - Leognan White                         90/92

92% Sauvignon, 8% Sémillon
Straw yellow with gray reflections.
The bouquet reveals powerful mint rock candy, and after a few seconds gooseberry, freshly cut celery, and citrus, in particular lemon, which predominates and is followed by hints of iodine.
Given the power of the nose, one would expect more structure on the palate than there is. A wine with intense savory notes, minerality, and considerable freshness that provides good balance.
Lemony in the finish, which is nice. An incredibly young wine.

Le Clarence De Haut - Brion 2008 Pessac - Leognan Red         87/89

45% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc
This is the second vintage of this wine, which replaces Bahans Haut Brion.
Nice lively ruby with purple reflections
The nose reveals intense prune accents with toasted peanuts, black pepper, nutmeg, cloves, leather, graphite, cassis and cherry, finishing with hints of mint.
On the palate there is pleasant fruit, in particular prune, though it is slightly bitter. The tannins are smooth and fairly broad (4/5 + +) and initially velvety, becoming drier and burning on the upper gums in the finish. A fairly well balance wine, with body not excessive.
Fairly persistent. Better on the nose than on the palate. I find it to be slightly better than La Chapelle de la Mission Haut - Brion
2008 is quite similar to 2007, though the tannins of the former are a bit livelier.

Clerc - Milon 2008 Pauillac Red                                                       87/89

42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
The nose reveals black fruit, in particular prunes, followed by cherry, sweet boisé, amber, mint, and finally linseed oil.
On the palate licorice, boisé and partially ripe prunes emerge. The tannins are sweet and fairly broad (5/6 - -) and initially velvety, becoming drier and heating the upper gums with time. A fairly well balanced wine with acidity that directs the alcohol.
The finish is apple laced, and slightly tongue-burning, with slight black pepper accents.
The body of the 2007 was a bit less evident than that of the 2008, while the fruit was ripe, almost jammy, whereas in the 2008 the fruit seems slightly sour.

Clinet 2008 Pomerol Red                                                                 90/92

85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc
A beautiful ruby red.
The bouquet reveals deep, elegant aromas of ripe cherry, prunes, vegetal leather (which tends towards cured leather), intense graphite, mint, black pepper, and underlying boiled milk.
On the palate its personality comes forward strongly, with rich savory notes and minerality supported by ripe cherries, almond paste, and sweet almonds.
The alcohol is in perfect harmony with acidity and tannins, which are sweet, velvety, and fairly broad (5/6).
Medium bodied with a long finish. A wine that is already pleasant to drink, even if its cherry fruit is quite ripe.

Clos de Baies 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                           90/92

100% Merlot
A wine made by Philippe Baillarguet, the in-house enologist of Château Ausone; production 1500 bottles.
Dark purple ruby.
A seductive nose with leather, black pepper, nutmeg, gun powder, licorice root, cherries, slight scalded milk, mint and deftly applied boisé. Full and fruity on the palate, with cherry fruit and alcohol well balanced by tannins and freshness. The tannins are sweet, silky, and broad (5/6). Medium bodied; the finish is long with cherry and mint accents. A well-made wine.

Clos L'Eglise 2008 Côtes de Castillon Red                                    87/89

70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 15 Cabernet Sauvignon
Intense, dark ruby.
The nose offers a medley of aromas: blonde Virginia tobacco, cigar box, prunes, black pepper, leather, Williams pears, cherries, nutmeg, mint, medicine cabinet (destined to fade with time), and finally chocolate.
On the palate it's fairly concentrated. A fairly well balanced wine with good acidity; the tannins are sweet, fairly broad (4/6), and initially velvety, becoming dry in the finish. Persistent.

Clos les Lunelles 2008 Côtes de Castillon Red                             87/89

80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Intense ruby with purple reflections
The nose opens with gunpowder, leather, Marseilles soap, cherries, black pepper, blackberries, and cassis, leading into cigar box.
On the palate, after the first impact it seems to disperse. A well-balanced wine whose acidity overshadows its alcohol. The tannins are sweet, velvety, and fairly broad (4/6 +).
Fairly persistent.

La Conseillante 2008 Pomerol Red                                                89/91

86% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc
Lively transparent ruby.
The nose is ample, and overflowing with balsamic mint and rosemary notes followed by aromas of cherry, prune, black pepper, nutmeg, leather, scalded milk, and toffee.
On the palate it is vinous, and not too well balanced; indeed, the alcohol, which ignores the acidity and the tannins, leaves a feeling of warmth in the center of the tongue. The tannins are sweet, velvety, and moderately broad (4/6 +) Long cherry and prune finish. The ripeness of the fruit is good; it's the balance that is somewhat wanting.

Cos D'Estournel 2008 Saint - Estèphe Red                                  89/91

85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc
Nice ruby with purple reflections
The bouquet presents graphite, cassis, ash, incense, green apple, fairly ripe cherry, black olives, leather, and chocolate, finishing with Virginia blond tobacco.
On the palate one notes wood and sweet tannins that are velvety and rather aggressive, burning the upper gums. Alcohol and freshness are both present, with the latter predominating over the former. A fairly persistent wine; at present the wood is a bit too pronounced, making the finish rather bitter. I liked the 2007 better because the palate was dominated by prune fruit rather than wood, and because the tannins were more velvety and broader.

Duhart - Milon 2008 Pauillac Red                                                   87/89

73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot
Pretty pale purple ruby.
The nose is particular, revealing smoky notes that bring to mind cooked ham and other cold cuts on the outset, followed by the more usual leather, prunes, black pepper, nutmeg, and mint, which lead into more fruit, this time cassis.
On the palate its youth is revealed, with sensations of boisé that will with time blend into the wine, followed by prunes and leather. The tannins are sweet, initially velvety, and fairly broad (5/6 - -), becoming drier in the finish. Despite the oak it is better on the palate than the nose. Fairly persistent.

L'Eglise Clinet 2008 Pomerol Red                                                   92/94

85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc
An elegant ruby red.
The nose is rich, complex, and pleasant, with leather, black pepper, cherry, nutmeg, medicine cabinet (typical of some young Merlots, and fades with time), mint, boiled chestnut skin, and violets.
On the palate it reveals all of its youth, with slight boisé, medicine cabinet and violets.
The weave at this point brings velvet to mind more than silk, while the acidity is sufficient to provide life to the tannins and keep the alcohol in perfect balance. Medium bodied, balanced, and persistent.
I find the 2008 of this wine to be superior to the 2007; it has pleasant violet accents I do not remember noting last year. The wine needs to come together a bit both on the nose and on the palate, but is already quite nice.

De Fieuzal 2008 Pessac - Leognan Red                                        87/89

60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon
Ruby with purple reflections and rim.
The nose reveals sweet oaky notes backed by leather, starch, prunes, black pepper, cherry, and mint, closing with blond Virginian tobacco.
Alcohol and freshness match strides on the palate, while the tannins are smooth, broad (6/6), and initially velvety, though they then become more astringent. Long finish. Even though the nose is a bit closed, I would have expected a little more on the palate.

Figeac 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                                        90/92

35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet Franc and 30% Merlot
Lively, intense ruby.
The nose reveals ripe cherry, Williams pear, chocolate, prunes, starch, and blond Virginian tobacco.
On the palate it is silky and fruity, with ripe cherries accompanied by chocolate. A balanced wine with alcohol and freshness in perfect harmony with sweet, fairly broad (5/6 -) velvety tannins.
Medium body and long finish.
The wood is already fairly well integrated. The fairly ripe fruit is indicative od the ripeness of the grapes. A pleasant wine.


Fonbel 2008 Sant Emilion Red                                                        89/91

65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, 5% Carmenere
Lively ruby with brilliant purple ruby reflections
The nose reveals leather, gun powder, almond paste, mint, eucalyptus, intense chocolate, slight violets, candied almonds, cherry, prune, and boiled chestnut skin.
Nice body, with savory minerality and perfectly measured freshness that balances alcohol. The tannins are sweet, silky, and fairly broad (4/6 + +).
Quite persistent, with pleasant prune in the finish, which however becomes slightly bitter as it fades.

La Gaffeliere 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                            90/93

90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
Ruby red with purple highlights
The nose reveals intense Williams pears and mint followed by cherry, chocolate, leather, prunes and graphite.
On the palate, its balance makes it especially pleasant. The tannins are sweet, fairly broad (5/6 -), and velvety, though in the finish the upper gums do burn slightly.
Medium bodied, with a long finish.
With time the wine will shed some of the wood now apparent. Overall, a good, pleasant wine.

Gazin 2008 Pomerol Red                                                                  88/90

92% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon
A nice, lively ruby. The nose has intense ripe cherries tending towards berry fruit jam, leather, and mint, black pepper, iodine, licorice root, balsamic accents that bring Valda lozenges to mind, dried tomatoes, prunes, and blond Virginian tobacco.
The palate opens with ripe cherries and slight black truffle, and rests upon an acidic-tannic axis that attempts to dominate the alcohol, and does to a degree. The tannins are sweet, velvety, somewhat central (4/6 +), and burn the upper gums some in the finish. Moderately long finish.
The fruit is a little overripe, and the alcohol somewhat too enthusiastic, at the expense of acidity.

Goulée 2008 North Medoc Red                                                        87/89

This is owned by Château Cos d'Estournel
80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot
Intriguing concentrated ruby with purple highlights
The nose is tightly woven and concentrated, with intense boisé accents, mint, graphite, cherry, prune, chocolate, scalded milk, eucalyptus, pine pitch, black pepper, nutmeg, cassis, blackberries, leather, smoke, linseed oil, and finally fruity prune. The nose also reveals alcohol, which is also present on the palate.
The tannins are rather boisterous, and burn the upper gums some. Alcohol and freshness are clearly evident and at the moment vacillate, with one and then the other carrying the wine.
Nice savoriness and minerality, with prune and smoke in the aftertastes.
I was uncertain about this wine, because I felt there was too much oak, and a bit too much alcohol.


Haut - Bailly 2008 Pessac - Leognan Red                                      90/93

70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot
An elegant ruby red.
The nose is initially closed, opening slowly to reveal cherry, prune, mint, cassis, and trieline, are underlain by boisé and boiled chestnut skin.
Soft but not exuberant, richly fresh, with sweet, velvety broad (5/6) tannins. A balanced, medium bodied wine with a long finish.
The finish has prunes and cherries accompanied by boisé that carries through the entire tasting. A nice wine; with time it will shed, both on nose and on palate, the boisé, which is at present evident.

Haut - Beauséjour 2008 Saint - Estèphe Red                             82/84

50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec
Intense ruby with violet reflections.
The nose is vegetal, with cyclamen root, intense tanned leather, petroleum, gunpowder, black pepper, slight nutmeg, and prune, finishing with cut grass.
On the palate there are bitter accents that bring cyclamen root to mind. The tannins combine sweetness and bitterness, while freshness dominates alcohol, making the wine fairly well balanced. On the palate there are also dried porcini mushrooms, which do not go well with the bitter accents, which are indicative of incomplete grape ripening.
Fairly persistent.

Haut-Brion 2008 Pessac - Leognan Red                                     92/95

50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot Noir, and 9% Cabernet Franc
Exceptional beginning with the color, ruby with purple reflections
Multifaceted nose with leather and intense fresh prunes, mingled with black pepper, nutmeg, intense almonds and graphite, and supported by cassis, blackberries, chocolate, toasted peanuts, mint, boisé, and finishing with cut grass.
On the palate, proverbial elegance and superb prunes.
The tannins are sweet, velvety, and almost fully extended (6/6 - ), helping the acidity to balance deft alcohol.
An elegant, pleasant wine, though not highly structured. Long finish. The 2008 has the same elegance of tannins as the 2007, but is richer on the nose. At this time I prefer, by a slight margin, Haut Brion and La Mission Haut - Brion.

Haut - Brion 2008 Pessac - Leognan White                                 92/94

55% Semillon, 45% Sauvignon Blanc
Straw yellow with gray reflections.
A penetrating nose with well defined minerality and iodine. The nose continues with intense gooseberry blossoms, mint rock candy, white pepper, boiled chestnut peel, orange blossoms, and citrus.
On the palate it offers a heady mix of savoriness and minerality.
Unique in its elegant refinement, it is shot through by a refreshing savory shiver that works its way between softness and structure. A balanced, persistent wine.

Haut Simard 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                             87/89

60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc
Purple ruby
The nose reveals very ripe cherry, mint, chocolate prunes, leather, and Williams pears.
On the palate it's fairly well balanced, with acidity predominating over alcohol. Medium bodied, with sweet, silky, broad (5/6 -) tannins. On the palate there's chocolate, and almost jammy cherries. Long finish. For me, overly ripe fruit is a symptom of oxidation. Fairly pleasant wine.

Lafite Rothschild 2008 Pauillac Red                                             94/96

83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc
An impenetrable, but luminous ruby red with black reflections
Terrific class; the bouquet reveal fairly ripe forest berry fruit, in particular cassis and blackberry, followed by mint, black pepper, slight linseed oil, and finishing with leathery brushstrokes.
Aristocratic on the palate, with the same fruity accents, warmth, and good freshness, supported by a pleasant tannic framework that will with time shed the wood now evident. The tannins are sweet, velvety and broad (6/6 - -).
Very young, but already displays great class.
With respect to 2007 this vintage displays more structure, and tannins that are slightly narrower, balanced by greater persistence, and I feel, more potential for the future. Long finish.

Larcis Ducasse 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                         88/90

96% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot
An elegant ruby red.
The nose reveals leather, mint, black pepper, cherries, prunes, Williams pears, and some chocolates; it brings to mind a just-broken "After Eight" chocolate. On the palate it is more nervous, with alcohol and freshness alternating.
The tannins are sweet, fairly broad (5/6 - -) and initially velvety, though they become more aggressive and burn the upper gums. Medium bodied, with a nice finish. It will certainly improve with time.

Latour - Martillac 2008 Pessac - Leognan Red                           89/91

An elegant, lively ruby.
The nose reveals pleasant cherry fruit supported by rhubarb root, prunes, mint, black pepper, Williams pears, and boisé accents.
The palate reveals pleasant prune fruit that carries into the finish. A balanced wine, with alcohol less in evidence thanks also to sweet, velvety broad (5/6) tannins. Quite persistent; it's a pleasant wine.

Laville Haut Brion 2008 Pessac - Leognan White                      90/92

79% Semillon, 21% Sauvignon Blanc
Straw yellow with gray reflections.
An elegant nose with boiled chestnut skin, intense gooseberry, almond paste, white pepper, nutmeg, mint, and citrus, in particular lemon and orange blossoms.
Rich, with savory accents and minerality that work with generous acidity to balance the alcohol, which is very much present.
Long finish. There's much less wood in the 2008 than there was in the 2007.

Lucia 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                                          86/88

90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
Intense ruby red
On the nose, one immediately enjoys intense cigar box, jammy cherries, and Williams pears, supported by leather, black pepper and nutmeg.
On the palate it seems quite sweet thanks to the cherry jam, which is quite distinct. A balanced wine in which acidity predominates, with the aid of sweet, velvety, fairly broad (4/6 +) tannins, over the alcohol.
Long finish.
The fruit is overripe, and therefore oxidized, and one notes this on both the nose and the palate.

Lusseau 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                                     86/88

75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc
Intense ruby
The nose reveals ripe cherries, leather, gunpowder, black pepper, mint, scalded milk, and slight cigar box.
On the palate there is the considerable ripe cherry also present on the nose. A fairly well balanced wine with sweet, velvety fairly borad (4/6 +) tannins that end up slightly burning against the upper gums. The body is a bit evanescent, though the wine is, overall, fairly persistent.
I find the 2008 to be superior to the 2007, also because the fruit present on nose and palate is ripe but not jammy, which is indicative of oxidation.

Lynch - Bages 2008 Pauillac Red                                                     91/93

78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot
Nice lively ruby with purple reflections
Pleasant aromas of leather, mint, eucalyptus, black pepper, prunes, cassis, and boisé, which lead into cherry.
On the palate, class and harmony. Sweet, velvety, fairly broad (5/6 -) tannins. A balanced wine whose acidity provides direction for its alcohol. Long, seductive prune and cassis finish.
I recall the 2007's being readier than this vintage. It will be interesting to follow it as it ages.

Lynch Bages 2008 Pauillac White                                                   88/90

50% Sauvignon, 45% Semillon, and 5% Muscadelle
Pale straw yellow.
Though initially timid, the nose reveals elegant rue leaves, tomato leaves, gooseberry, almond paste, and white pepper. The palate confirms rue and tomato leaves; there is also savory minerality with acidity predominating over the alcohol.
The body is not excessive; rather, it is fairly delicate, with a fairly long finish.

Malartic Lagraviere 2008 Pessac - Leognan Red                       88/90

55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot
Nice intense ruby with purple reflections.
The nose reveals fumé, ripe cherries, black pepper, nutmeg, prunes, cassis, dry hay, Williams pears, and ash.
On the palate it reveals fairly potent, enveloping structure that is well integrated with sweet, velvety broad (6/6 -) tannins. A well-balanced, persistent wine with a ripe fruit finish.

Margaux 2008 Margaux Red                                                           92/94

87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 1.5% Cabernet Franc and 1.5% Petit Verdot
Beautiful ruby with purple reflections
A pleasant nose that immediately presents with intense cut tobacco, cigar box and prunes, followed by cassis, cherry, mint, rhubarb root, and finally hints of smoke.
On the palate the tannins are initially timid but sweet, and velvety, and broaden to reach almost all of the upper gums (6/6 - -)
At present the balance of the wine vacillates some, with alternating generous acidity and alcohol that both vie for the lead. This wine is always pleasing and elegant, and is more structured than the 2007, though it obviously doesn't reach the heights of the 2006, which remains the benchmark for this winery.

La Mission Haut - Brion 2008 Pessac - Leognan Red                  91/93

51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc
It welcomes us with lively, bright ruby hues and purple reflections.
The nose offers a sequence of almonds, almond paste, leather, graphite, intense prune, black pepper, nutmeg, mint, cassis, chamomile, cherry, chocolate, toasted peanut, blackberry, and paint.
The peanuts dip into Gianduja (Torino's chocolate-hazelnut cream), and one feels as if one is sniffing a jar of Nutella.
On the palate there are pleasant prunes and fairly ripe cherries that carry though into the finish. The palate is blessed by balance in which acidity is assisted by sweet fairly broad (5/6 +) tannins that are initially velvety, but become dry in the finish.
A savory, mineral, elegant wine with good body. Long finish.
The tannins of the 2007 were slightly superior to those of the 2008, both in breadth and quality. In the aftertastes, the prune of the 2008 is riper than that of the 2007, which was slightly sour.

Monbousquet 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                           88/90

66% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Intense, dark ruby.
The nose is in crescendo; it begins with intense sweet boisé, followed by ripe cherry, prune, toffee, leather, black pepper, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, mint, cut tobacco (Sigaro Toscano), and finishes with licorice.
The palate reveals boisé and mineral accents.
The wine is fairly well balanced, with alcohol overshadowed by freshness and sweet, fairly velvety, tannins that are impetuous and broad (5/6 +).
Long finish. The wine is a bit oaky on both nose and palate, and will have to shed much oak with time.

Monbousquet 2008 Saint Emilion White                                       91/93

2/3 Sauvignon Blanc and 1/3 Sauvignon Gris
Bright pale straw yellow
The nose offers a mixture of gooseberry, rue leaves, tomato leaves, candied almond paste, almonds, mint and hints of boisé.
On the palate it's savory and mineral with nice softness. A balanced, persistent wine. It reminds me of the 2007, though that vintage was superior to this one.

Mouton Rothschild 2008 Pauillac Red                                           93/95

83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot
Nice lively ruby. Exciting nose, with intense prune as protagonist, followed by interesting gunflint, leather, fulminate, black pepper, nutmeg, blackberry, cassis, mint, boisé, toffee, violets, and graphite, which lead into boiled chestnut skin.
Richly flavored on the palate, with ripe prune taking the fore. The tannins are soft, velvety, and quite broad (6/6), and, with the help of generous acidity work with the alcohol to provide perfect balance.
The prune notes in the finish fade fairly quickly, giving way to longer, more indirect accents.
The tannins of the 2008 are superior to those of the 2007, and I find the 2008 to be superior, overall, to the 2007.

Ormes de Pez 2008 Saint - Estephe Red                                      97/89

51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 39% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot
Intense ruby red
Enticing nose with leather, chocolate, mint, prunes, black pepper, cherries, smoke and licorice.
On the palate oak is evident, providing support to a body that is perhaps not too structured; it drifts away, even though the wine is fairly well balanced despite the presence of fairly narrow (4/6) tannins. Acidity provides direction. Fairly leathery finish.

Pagodes de Cos 2008 Saint Estèphe Red                                     87/89

Cos D'Estournel's second wine
45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 53% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot
Ruby with intense purple reflections
The nose reveals green apples, fumè, licorice, mint, asphalt, dry hay, black pepper, nutmeg, linseed oil, cherries and prunes.
The palate is pleasantly fruit-laced, with cherries and prunes followed by smoky accents.
The tannins are fairly narrow (4/6 +); the wine is moderately structured and fades fairly quickly.
Nice balance and good acidity.
I found the nose, and in particular the green apple and the dry hay, a bit odd.

Palmer 2008 Margaux Red                                                              90/92

51% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Petit Verdot
Burmese ruby with purple reflections
Rich bouquet replete with black cherries and toasted wood, mint, toffee, leather, Williams pears, and, finally, cut tobacco and cigar box.
The palate has seductive ripe black cherry fruit. The tannins are sweet, velvety, and fairly broad, giving the wine balance thanks to good acidity and alcohol that is present but not excessive.
Nice, pleasant savory notes and minerality. A nice finish, with black cherry and toasted oak.
The tannins need to smooth, but the potential is there. A pleasant wine, perhaps slightly lacking in structure, though it obviously is more structured than Alter Ego.

Pape Clemente 2008 Pessac - Leognan Red                              89/91

50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot
A fairly intense lively ruby.
The nose has intense boisé that also presents as extremely balsamic mint, eucalyptus, and cinnamon. The bouquet continues with prune and cherry fruit, licorice, and leather.
The palate perfectly reflects the nose, with intense boisé accents. A balanced wine with sweet, velvety, broad (5/6) tannins that become dried in the finish, because of wood.
The body is above average. Long finish.

Pavie 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                                         90/92

70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Nice, intense ruby.
The nose reveals mint, eucalyptus, cherry, rubber, prune, cut grass, and cigar box.
Round, harmonious, and balanced on the palate. The tannins are sweet, velvety, and fairly broad (5/6) A sweet finish - boisé. Long intense aromatic persistence.
This vintage reminds me of 2007, though the boisé notes are more pronounced in the finish. The fruit is not oxidized, as it was in 2006, but not in 2007.

Pavie Decesse 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                         87/89

90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc
Intense, almost black ruby red
The nose reveals distinct boisé notes mingled with cherry, intense leather, licorice, prunes, intense graphite, and black pepper, leading into nutmeg.
On the palate the boisé accents are quite evident. Alcohol and freshness are nicely balanced, and the tannins are sweet, initially velvety, and fairly broad (4/6 +), though they dry in the finish, probably because of oak. The body is moderate, and the finish nice.

Pavie Macquin 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                         90/92

85% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon
Intense ruby red.
The nose has cherries, intense chocolate, prunes, intense Williams pears, Idrolitina (a powder added to water to make it effervesce), boisé, black pepper, starch, and ash.
On the palate there's a tasty pleasant rush of cherries supported by prunes and some boisé.
Considerable alcohol and freshness accompanied by sweet, velvety, and broad (5/6) tannins. A well made, elegant, pleasant wine that still needs to shed some wood. Long finish.

Pavillon Rouge 2008 Margaux Red                                               88/90

Château Margaux's second wine
A nice ruby red with purple reflections
The nose is fairly tight, but reveals cherries, Williams pear, starch, mint, slight boisé, licorice, cassis, and finally blond Virginian tobacco.
It's timid at the outset, but then opens, and seduces the palate with cassis, cherry and prune fruit.
An elegant, pleasant, well balanced wine. The tannins are smooth and velvety, but not too broad. Freshness predominates over alcohol. Nice finish. The wine is slightly lacking in structure.

Pavillon Blanc 2008 Margaux White                                            92/94

Pale straw yellow.
The nose reveals floral gooseberry accents, boiled chestnut skin, almond, and finally freshly mowed grass.
Rich savory accents and minerality that make it balanced, thanks also to considerable freshness.
There are rue leaves in the finish, and after 20 minutes one still senses rue and peach leaves.
I recall the 2007 as riper, with tropical fruit accents -- mango and papaya -- that this vintage lacks. The 2007 was ready, on the nose too, whereas the 2008 has a more timid bouquet, but grater aging potential. The 2008 is much more persistent than the 2007.

Le Petit Cheval 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                        90/92

60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc
A pleasant lively ruby
Explosive nose, with blond Virginian tobacco followed by leather, gunpowder, mint, cherry, prune, earth, cassis, Williams pears, black pepper, and finally hints of wet tea bag.
Equally explosive on the palate, with prune and leaf tobacco supported by savory notes and minerality; it is initially fairly well balanced, though one then has the impression that the freshness and the tannins, which are sweet, silky, and broad (5/6) are unable to completely balance the alcohol.
Clearly, with bottle age the wine will become fully balanced. A nice finish, though it does not reach the levels of its father, Cheval Blanc. Elegant, pleasant wine; some of its aromas bring the 2007 to mind, though it is slightly superior overall.

La Petite Eglise 2008 Pomerol Red                                                89/91

100% Merlot
Ruby red
The bouquet reveals cherry, mint, vegetal accents, black pepper, nutmeg, boisé, and slight starch.
The palate is fruity: Cherry. A balanced wine with sweet velvety, broad (6/6 -) tannins. Alcohol and freshness nicely balanced. Fairly long finish.

Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothshchild 2008 Pauillac Red     89/91

94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot
Ruby red.
Impressive nose, with boisé, boiled chestnut skin, and spicy black pepper, nutmeg and cloves, followed by leather, licorice, mint, prune, and cherry, finishing up with violets.
On the palate leather and boisé emerge.
The wine is fairly well balanced, with alcohol and freshness quite evident, while the tannins are sweet, velvety, and fairly broad (5/6 +).
Long finish.
I recall that the 2007 was better on the nose than the palate, and that it was somewhat less structured than the 2008. The tannins have the same breadth in both vintages, while the 2008 has slightly more intense boisé. I find the 2007 to be slightly superior to the 2007.

Petit - Village 2008 Pomerol Red                                                   88/90

78% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Cabernet Franc
Burmese ruby red
The nose reveals cherries, chocolate, mint, black pepper, Idrolitina (a powder added to water to make it effervesce), and finally hints of boisé.
The palate offers pleasant cherry and chocolate. The body is delicate, and the wine is not particularly structured, though it is well balanced, with freshness and tannins tightly controlled. Fairly persistent.
A well made, pleasant wine, though not as powerful as it might be.

De Pez 2008 Saint - Estéphe Red                                                   89/91

45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot
Lively ruby red.
The nose reveals leathery aromas, gunpowder, cut grass, black pepper, nutmeg, intense fresh prunes, starch, slight violets, and finishes with cherry.
On the palate there's nice fresh plum followed by gunpowder and leather.
The tannins are sweet, velvety and fairly broad (4/6 +). A balanced wine with alcohol in a subservient role. Medium bodied, with a long finish.
A pleasant wine whose youth is quite evident, though the tannins are not too broad.

Pibran 2008 Pauillac Red                                                                  87/89

51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 49% Merlot
Nice ruby with purple highlights.
The nose opens with ash, cherry, prunes, mint, black pepper, slight eucalyptus, and leathery vegetal aromas, which lead into fruity cassis.
The palate has mouth-filling fresh prunes.
The tannins are sweet, velvety, and fairly broad (5/6 -). Alcohol and freshness are balanced, with the latter deftly guiding the show.
The body is moderately intense, while the finish is fairly long. A pleasant wine that could have more structure and persistence.

Pichon - Longueville Baron 2008 Pauillac Red                             91/93

Ruby with purple reflections
Intriguing, complex nose with chocolate, black pepper, nutmeg, prunes, cherry, mint, fresh untanned bristly leather, and eucalyptus, finishing up with pleasant violet floral accents.
On the palate it's full, broad, and rich, with an abundance of fruit, especially prunes. The tannins are sweet, and initially velvety and fairly broad (5/6), though they are a bit dry in the finish.
A wine with good structure and balance thanks also to acidity that beautifully dominates the alcohol.
A beautiful wine, which I liked better than the 2007.
I recall that in 2007 I preferred Comtesse de Lalande to this, whereas this year I find Baron Longueville to be superior.

Pichon Longueville Comtesse De Lalande 2008 Pauillac Red

                                                                                                                 90/92

63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot
Beautiful ruby red.
The nose reveals leather, chocolate, mint, cherry, prune, slight Williams pear, black pepper, nutmeg, licorice, violets, eucalyptus, and cassis, which work into boisé accents.
On the palate there's explosive minerality, violets and prunes. The tannins are smooth, initially velvety, and fairly broad (5/6 - - ) becoming dry and hot on the upper gums in the finish.
Medium bodied, with a long ripe prune finish. I remember the 2007's having tannins that were broader and less dry than these. Overall, a nice wine, though I think that 2007 was better.

Le Pin 2008 Pomerol Red                                                                 96/98

Nice ruby red.
The nose is young, and interesting, but is already legible, with spicy black pepper and nutmeg accents, cherry, mint, rubber, scalded milk, slight leather, and gunpowder, winding up with very nice violet aromas.
The palate reveals very pleasant cherries. It combines great potential, balance and elegance: A balanced wine whose acidity does a fine job of supporting the alcoholic structure. The tannins are sweet, velvety tending towards silky, and broad (6/6).
Long finish.
The 2008 is quite different with respect to the 2007 I tasted last year; I retasted the 2007 together with the 2008 this year and found it improved; it is more interesting on the nose, with animal and fruit accents, but remains less structured and less persistent. The 2009 reminds me of the elegance and charm of the 2006.
Stunning tannins!

Reserve de la Comtesse 2008 Pauillac Red                               87/89

This is the second wine of Château Pichon Longueville de Lalande
33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot
An elegant Burmese ruby.
The nose starts off with leather, strong cut tobacco, cigar box, Williams pears, slight black pepper, nutmeg, Idrolitina (a powder added to water to make it effervesce),, intense violets, and finally a dusting of vanilla.
On the palate it reveals considerable alcohol and freshness, with sweet, velvety, fairly narrow tannins (4/6 + +)
At the outset one notes dried porcini mushrooms, slight prune, and violets. Medium bodied, and some alternation between alcohol in freshness, with acidity winning out in the end. A young wine that needs to develop balance.

Saint George 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                           89/91

80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc
A mixture of intense ruby and purple.
The nose is explosive, with very intense black cherry backed up by leather, mint, black pepper, and nutmeg, with a hint of scalded milk at the end.
On the palate it is full, with beautiful ripe black cherry accompanied by chocolate. A balanced wine, as the freshness is supported by sweet, velvety, broad (5/6 +) tannins that predominate over the alcohol.
Medium bodied, with a long finish; it's better on the palate than on the nose.

Sanctus 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                                      89/91

70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc
Beautiful lively ruby.
The nose is characterized by intense Williams pears, followed by mint, cut tobacco (Sigaro Toscano), prunes, cherry, leather, medicine cabinet, and black pepper. There is also slight alcohol, which is not apparent on the palate.
A balanced, persistent wine with sweet, velvety, broad (6/6) tannins, and acidity that predominates over alcohol.
Long chocolate-laced finish.
The 2008 is certainly better than the 2007, with much broader tannins. Williams pears are present in both vintages.

Simard 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                                       87/89

65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc
Purple ruby.
The bouquet is elegant, with intense cherry followed by prune, chocolate, marzipan, almond paste, mint, slight black pepper, candied almonds and leather.
On the palate it's fairly well balanced. The body is fairly thin, with alcohol and freshness in balance, even though the tannins are rather lean and hot. Fairly persistent. A fairly pleasant wine, which is better on the nose than on the palate.

Smith Haut Lafitte 2008 Pessac - Leognan Red                        90/92

A nice intense ruby with purple highlights.
An elegant nose, with prunes, cherries, mint, blond Virginian tobacco, cigar box, Lebanese cedar, and, finally, leather.
A pleasant wine, though it is not excessively structured. The tannins are sweet, velvety, and fairly broad (5/6 --), and alcohol and freshness are nicely balanced. Long finish.

Smith Haut Lafitte 2008 Pessac - Leognan White                     91/93

Straw yellow with greenish-gray reflections.
The bouquet has boiled chestnut skin, gooseberry, mint, vanilla, cotton starch, white pepper, fresh celery, and finally cotton candy.
The structure is pleasant, with considerable savoriness and minerality that help freshness guide the alcohol. A long finish with floral and boiled chestnut skin accents. A young wine, with considerable potential.

La Tour du Pin 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                          90/92

75% Cabernet Franc and 25% Merlot
Lively, shiny ruby with purple reflections
A beautiful combination of fragrance and complexity, with lively prune accents and intense graphite that mingle with cherry, leather, candied almond, black pepper, nutmeg, slight black truffle, blackberry, eucalyptus, slight violet, and finally rhubarb root.
Nice on the palate, with silky tannic weave perfectly balanced by deft acidity and sweet broad (6/6 -) tannins. Medium bodied, with slight black truffle, cherry and prune flavors. The finish is long, resolving into chocolate.
The nose is interesting, but hesitates to reveal its aromas. Overall, a fine wine.

Les Tourelles de Longueville 2008 Pauillac Red                         88/90

This is Château Pichon Longueville's second wine.
Ruby with purple highlights.
The nose has intense cherries, Idrolitina (a powder added to water to make it effervesce), Williams pears, chocolate, intense leather, prune, and finishes with smoky accents.
The palate is pleasant, with dried prunes and cherries. Sweet, velvety, broad (5/6) tannins; it is savory and mineral, with acidity that predominates over alcohol, giving the wine balance.
Elegant, but not too persistent; the body slides away to a degree.

Troplong Mondot 2008 Saint Emilion Red                                    87/89

90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
Intense ruby.
The bouquet reveals mint, cherry jam, toffee, boisé, and finishes with pleasant Virginian blond tobacco.
On the palate wood is quite evident. A balanced wine, with alcohol, freshness, and tannins in perfect accord. The tannins are sweet, velvety and fairly broad (5/6 --), and the finish is long.
The fruit is overripe, which is for me symptomatic of oxidation; for the American palate.

Vieux Château Certan 2008 Pomerol Red                                    89/91

70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
An elegant, brilliant transparent ruby.
The nose presents fruity cherry jam accents followed by violets, rubber, mint, rust, cinnamon and starch. The palate is sweet, with the cherry jam already notes on the nose. Fairly soft, and fresh, with sweet, velvety, fairly broad (5/6 -) tannins. A balanced, medium bodied wine with along cherry prune finish.
Both the ripeness of the fruit and the structure of the wine seem to have gotten away from the winemaker, Usually, this wine is not as full bodied, while the fruit is ripe but not overripe. With the 2008 vintage the body is more evident, and breaks with the style preferred by Alexandre Thienpont. The 2006 is the best of the past four vintages.

Yquem 2008 Sauternes                                                                    92/94

80% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon
Brilliant gold.
The nose is charged and complex, with almost dried apricot, acacia honey, intense mint, slight white pepper, tropical fruit, in particular mango and papaya, orange marmalade, white blossoms, and finally pleasant iodine accents.
On the palate it is initially creamy, unlike the 2007 and 2006, and then the concentration fades some. A harmonious wine with softness, alcohol, freshness and savory notes well balanced.
In the finish tea and bitter orange marmalade emerge, balancing the sweetness of the honey and dried apricot.
A beautiful wine, which is however somewhat less structured than the 2001, 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages. I recall the brilliant acidity of the 2001. The 2008 is nice, but I don't think it stands at the same level as the other vintages mentioned.


Translation of Kyle Phil